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Baja whale 'camp' offers close-up views
By LUCINDA BUTLER
For The Gazette
Published May 22, 2005
http://www.billingsgazette.com/index.php?id=1&display=rednews/2005/05/22/build/sports/62-whale-camp.inc
Remember the mantra "save the whales?" Today, "save
the whale nurseries" seems more appropriate.
For eons, California gray whales have used four large lagoons
on the western coast of Mexico's Baja Peninsula for mating and
giving birth. Starting in January, gray whales arrive, having
migrated more than 6,000 miles from the Bering Sea. Pregnant females
seek sanctuary in Laguna Ojo de Liebre (Scammon's Lagoon), St.
Ignacio, Soledad and Magdalena bays.
My family's destination, Kuyima whale camp (www.kuyima.com) in
San Ignacio Lagoon, has primitively equipped huts and campsites
at the water's edge. Kuyima defines eco-tourism. Electricity comes
from wind generation and hot water from solar heaters. Composting
and recycling are not choices but necessities.
The camp is staffed by local Mexican workers. Boats, or pangas,
are manned by a knowledgeable naturalist and guide. The guides
are off-season fishermen armed with intimate knowledge of the
whales and lagoon. This provides ideal encounters with some of
nature's largest and most beautiful creatures.
The boat operators observe strict guidelines in designated viewing
areas. Once a whale surfaces nearby, the motors are placed in
neutral. Our boat, with children on board, seemed to attract more
attention. The mother whales lifted the calves on their backs
through the water allowing us to touch, rub, hug and kiss their
babies. The mothers, usually under the boat, floated upward bringing
the calves toward our outstretched hands.
Perhaps if I was a poet, I could describe the feelings that overcame
us while embracing some of nature's largest and most beautiful
creatures. Removing my sunglasses allowed me to literally look
into the eyes of the whales. In a way, they reminded me of a group
of wet Labrador retriever puppies. They wanted to be petted, held
and stroked, all with their mother's careful supervision.
Surprisingly, the bays are clear of predators such as orcas and
sharks. Why the predators are not present remains a mystery. Locals
postulated that the male whales arrive first, scouting and sweeping
the area free of predators. Scientific research has shown that
the higher salinity in the shallow lagoons may be the determining
factor. Whatever the reason, California gray whales find these
waters safe for their young.
Whether or not the waters remain pristine is dependent on human
development. These crucial habitats face continual assault by
industrial corporations, commercial marina and hotel development.
Currently, the most ominous threat to San Ignacio Bay is Mitsubishi
Corporation's quest to expand its salt-extraction facilities in
nearby desert habitat. If future expansion of the Mitsubishi plant
goes unchecked, levels of heavy metals such as arsenic, contained
in runoff, could deliver dangerous sediment to the bay.
Raul Lopez, field coordinator for Kuyima, expressed grave concern
about commercial or industrial development in the area. The International
Community Foundation is working with Lopez to help preserve the
region.
